You know you want it...

London may be finally catching up to speed, but when it comes to private kitchens and hideaway foodie spots Hong Kong rocks. Step along buzzy Hollywood Road and arrive at #31 and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve come to the wrong place. The grubby ubiquitous metal grille door, manky plastic DIY-store keypad and grungy miniscule blue lift are all part of the clandestine adventure, but hit floor 7 and the gentle thud of expectant heart turns to a rapid flutter when you arrive at TBLS, chef Que Van Dinh’s newly created little laboratory of luxe.

Book early to squeeze in

With only 16 covers per night and a great value six-course prix fixe, you need to book ahead to sample Que’s adventures in gastronomy. Here in a sleek, minimalist and simply fitted kitchen/diner with four tables, a few bar seats, and delightful drinks terrace with more than its fair share of groove sounds, the really in the know are feasting on the likes of smoked bacon risotto with poached organic Taiyouran egg, braised short rib with sous vide endives and garlic and polenta, and seared Hokkaido scallop with prawn coconut broth. Two courses are reserved for puds – on our visit Carrot Financier with cream cheese ice-cream, and Peppermint Macarons filled with chocolate sorbet – so the sweet toothed are salved and sated.

Keeping the faff-free side of molecular while harnessing the artisanal latest and greatest is the core of chef Que’s schtick and when you consider the six course dinner costs $480 + service, you realise why it’s become one of the hardest scenes to get a seat.

Next stop for Que? Pastry inspired cocktails and cocktail inspired pastries – martini macaron, anyone? Not half.

7/F 31 Hollywood Rd, Central. T: 2544 3433. W: tbls-kitchenstudio.com. Dinner only, $480 six-course set menu