Miró, Miró on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all? Don’t be fooled by this Spanish dowager’s austere veneer. Oft-overshadowed by her Gaudí-er sister Barça, this old gal ain’t the capital for nothin’. With Almodóvar-blue skies, world-class museums, swish retail, non-stop nightlife and elegant, enticing gastronomy, Madrid reigns supreme.
Overview
Madrid is flat, compact and easily walkable, so don your spiffiest pumps and get out there – you’ll be most taken. From the central Puerta del Sol, arty vibey Chueca is northeast, prim n’ proper Salamanca is further northeast still, The Golden Triangle of Art is southeast, and the atmossy old quarter lies southwest.
Need to Know
Weather: Best time to visit is spring or autumn (May is tops), winter is cold and clear, summer is brickoven hot, and the whole damn city shuts down in August
Language: English is not widely spoken, so prepare to gesture frantically
Spanish Time: In a hurry? Forget it. Get used to mañana, mañana
When to Eat: Siesta, then fiesta. It’s pointless trying to fight the Madrileño way of life. Have lunch at 2pm, dinner at 10pm, cocktails at midnight and dancing at 2am
Dress Code: Madrileños tend to dress up, so ditch the sweatpants, honey
Service: Don’t wait for waiters, wave at them politely – just don’t expect them to be polite back
Talking Points
Fútbol. Insult this religion at your peril, or worship at the altar of Bernabéu where local rivals Real Madrid and Atlético battle it out with Barça in La Liga (until May). Best int’l games Jan-Mar; see web for tours and dine at the stadium’s resto, Puerta 57
The Golden Triangle. You’ve hit the art GSpot, so go bag yourself a Paseo del Arte from any of the big three (Prado, Reina Sofia or ThyssenBornemisza) for single entry into each. You’ll need more than a day, Doris, so refresh at the Ritz, or find refuge in the shady verdure of the Jardín Botánico
Wondrous Warbles. Spain’s answer to the Royal Opera House, the bicentenary Teatro Real boasts sublime acoustics.
Events. Fashion Week (Feb); ARCO (Feb) top galls and creatives convene; Madrid Open (Apr-May) ace!; Feast day of San Isidro (15 May) bullfighting hell; Orgullo (Jun-Jul) gay pride; Mad Cool (Jul) indie music fest
